Ischia - Live like a Princess

Our early April trip to the island of Ischia (pronounced isk-ee-a) was recommended to us at a fresh pasta making class by Valentina Harris at La Cucina Caldesi in Marylbone London.  I took advantage of her wealth of local knowledge to ask where we might go in Capri - and she looked at my partner and I and suggested we would much prefer Ischia.  Hmmmn.  Not sure what she was getting at, but when we finally figured at where Ischia was and researched it a little - it turned out to be a great tip to 30 something Aussie backpackers.

Ischia is a small island in the Gulf of Naples, nearby the very small Procida - known to readers of Penelope Green's book 'Girl by sea', and the much more well known Isle of Capri.  Two things about Ischia appealed to me - 1. the opportunity to stay in a former Aragonese Castle which has renovated to be a simple stylish bed and breakfast. 2. the possibility of swimming at a hot water beach, as we had previously enjoyed in Iceland and New Zealand.

This mid 14th century Aragonese castle is yours for the night at this fantastic budget hotel. Accessed from the Ischia ponte part of the island by a 220m brick bridge, you get your own key to access the lift after hours if required to climb 60m above sea level to your rooms. Stunning by night, we could see Mt Vesuvius and Naples from our bathroom window carved out of the ancient stone walls. The hotel was renovated in 2001 and provides accommodation ranging from the budget simple rooms which are sparse but with much character to the glamorous room 8 with its own private terrace overlooking the sea. A lovely breakfast was included in our stay, and we chose to eat in one of our two nights - with a very reasonable and tasty 3 course meal provided. Coming home from a night out, walking 'our' bridge home and bypassing the lift to take the mule path up to the castle was a wonderful unique experience.

You arrival in style to Ischia over the water - on the efficient hydrofoils from Naples (45 mins) or the longer car ferries.  They leave several times a day from the port, but be sure to get a boat to your final destination as Ischia has several mini resort areas.  You can even catch a ferry from Positano if you wish to combine your visit with time on the gorgeous Amalfi Coast.

Ischia is a volcanic island with many natural thermal springs. The volcanic soil contributes to the lush gardens and there is even a vineyard on the island. The best way to get around is on the bus system - the station is near the port where ferries arrive. We went to the thermal spa - Poseidon's garden mainly as it was the only one open during the off season when we arrived. There were more than 10 different hot pools, with a variety of temperatures to bathe in, as well as umbrellas at the beach and a beautiful indoor pool. The restaurant there served a variety of salads and meals cooked to order like fish and chips. Also on offer where treatments such as massages. Be aware that you need to have a bathing cap on to enter the water - like most thermal spas in Europe, but they are available for purchase at the spa. A full day out when you combine the 45 minute bus trip each way to Fornio.

We had a lovely time on this island in April, during the off season.  We enjoyed the stay in a castle immensely and loved splashing around in the warm water in the chilly Spring.  As a break from the madness of Naples, or to add on to a trip to the Amalfi, I can highly recommend this beautiful little island.  Ischia formed a large part of the setting for the movie The Talented Mr Ripley, so if you liked what you saw in the film, come and visit this gorgeous Italian getaway.